Merhaba (Hello) Istanbul

For our Spring Break, we joined the Houston group of students in Poli 345: Global Urban Lab....in Istanbul, Turkey!

Honestly, this was one of the most amazing weeks of my life. I don't think I will be able to fully express myself in a few blog posts, and accurately explain everything I saw, everything I learned, and all of the wonderful experiences that I had. The whole week was a blur! It was a blur of colors, sights, new people and places, making new friends, and being immersed in an entirely different culture.

Istanbul is unlike any place I have ever visited. First of all, this was the first time I visited a country where I do not speak the native language. That was an entirely new experience for me! I didn't give this fact much thought until I got there, and it was almost a surprise to me when I realized I could not read any of the signs, nor understand most people outside of our student group. Ah! I needed to learn some basics quickly. On the bus to our dorm, I borrowed a classmate's Kindle because she had a phrase book of basic Turkish. I made sure to learn hello, my name is, I don't speak much Turkish, thank you, etc. Early on, I also realized that unlike my visits to France, the majority of people in Turkey do not know English. Many know the basics, but even waiters at frequently visited tourist restaurants did not know much beside basic English phrases. It was really great that we had Ipek and Dr. Marschall with us most of the time to help us.

Second, this was the first time that I visited a non-majority-Christian country. They say Turkey is 99% Muslim and 100% secular, but I would say that Islam is very prominent and that it makes up an important part of the culture if not the religious attitudes. For example, even though people may be secular, the culture is still mixed with Islamic values and thought.
I loved seeing the mosques everywhere. As our airplane touched down, I looked out the window and was awestruck by the look of the city. Neighborhoods sprawled but everywhere, in every direction, I could see the tall minarets of the mosques sticking out above all other buildings (except the few skyscrapers). Later on when we were on the bus I also noticed the strong Islamic and Ottoman influence on some of the older and historic buildings.
My friend Angie also pointed out that it reminded her of Monterrey, Mexico. I agreed in that it had many similarities to some Mexican cities, even though I have never seen Monterrey. For example, the style of the apartment houses, the clothing lines, the color of the paint, and even the style of the roads and highways certainly made me think of places like Morelia. Other things were the constant vendors everywhere on the streets, selling everything from umbrellas, gum, drinks, to small souvenir or household items. Finally, the style of the bazaar and the outdoor stands selling fresh fruit juices or food also reminded me of Mexico.

Taken from the bus, on our way to the dorm. 

We stayed at a dorm in Koç Univierstiy, located in a neighborhood called Istinye. It was somewhat to the north of Istanbul, not exactly in the heart of the city, but not too far away either. I liked that we lived a little farther out because that way we got to see more of the real Turkish culture of the suburbs, versus the places plagued by tourists. It was nice to walk around the neighborhood, see some shops, and sit at local cafés. Angie and I discovered the amazing drink called "salep," which is similar to Mexican atole. It is a warm milk based drink with cinnamon, but I am not sure what else is used to make it.

On our first night we were tired from our travel. It was somewhat an ordeal to get to the airport with all of our large bags. We had to pull our bags down a hill for a 20 minute walk to the underground station, and then carry it up stairs when we transferred to a different train route. I was extremely thankful that Tosh helped me carry it up the stairs.

Anyway, we made it to Istanbul in one piece, even though our Houston counterparts did not. They had some bad luck leaving Houston and so were quite delayed. Their flight had actually been cancelled and they had to take a later flight. Otherwise, they would have joined us on our flight from London Heathrow to Istanbul. But no worries! We met Ipek at the airport and she had everything ready for us. (Oh we actually made a mistake upon arrival and got on the wrong bus, only to discover it was for a different group)

That first night we just settled in at Koç, took a stroll down the neighborhood to the Bosphorous and then had coffee/tea/salep at Mina's, a small but quaint café. I loved that I got to see the Bosphorous and the beautiful lit up bridge (one of the two) that joins the "European side" of Istanbul to the "Asian side."

First night: enjoying the neighborhood view across the Bosphorous

Mmm my first Turkish coffee

Overall, a good first day full of excitement for all of the activities that were still to come!

Adapting to London Life

During one of Dr. Emerson's lectures, we discussed the ways in which urbanism changes social life. What are the effects of cities on the individuals that make up urban society? How do people adapt to cities? These are questions that certain sociologists have addressed in the past. On example is Wirth, who in 1938 argued that the critical masses of people in urban places led people to feel alienated. He believed urban life weakened kinship ties and undermined the traditional basis for social solidarity.

So in class we discussed accuracy of Wirth's (1938) statements and some of the ways that London life has changed us, for the better or worse. Later on in the day, I made a list of things that I have learned while adapting to London life.

I took this picture!

-When people start running down the platform, I should probably run too because the train is about to leave.

-It is perfectly okay to wear nice suits or dresses with chunky winter boots or uggs.

-Fashionable men wear dark suits and winter coats, but pastel colored scarves.

-Food seems to spoil a little faster, even in the fridge...because food here has less chemicals and preservatives in it.

-You should always walk fast and with a purpose, especially in the Underground. Move to the edges if you need to slow down, or else risk being run into.

-Stand only on the right side of the escalator. The left side is for people who are walking up the escalator.

-MIND THE GAP.......between the train and the platform.

-A good intern knows how to make a good cup of tea.

-When people ask "Are you okay?" they actually mean "How are you?" So you should answer "Fine, thank you" and not "Yes," otherwise they'll keep asking.

-Going to a pub after work for a couple of beers (with your co-workers) is normal.

-Office etiquette requires you (even the bosses or supervisors) to make tea for your co-workers.

-You know you're adapting to London life when tourists taking pictures annoy you.

I want to upload some videos...so I'm experimenting to see how it works.

Urban Theory and More!

This week was really great! I loved it for several reasons.

Lecture from Rice University
Dr. Emerson, a sociology professor from Rice, was here the entire week. He gave lectures on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday. His lectures were about urbanization and urban theory. They were really great because they helped me put a lot of things into perspective. I'm seeing all these great things about the city of London, ranging from the fascinating transportation system to the upcoming excitement of the Olympic games. But now I can reflect about these great things using urban theory. For example, there is an important theory called the "growth mechanism," primarily by urban sociologists Logan and Molotch. They argue that cities grow because certain important actors, such as entrepreneurs and politicians adopt pro-growth policies. All growth is good! This made me think of the reasons behind the Olympic bid. In reality, it is being used to redevelop (grow) an area that is prime but currently destitute. I found the lectures extremely helpful and informative. I really wish Dr. Emerson could have stayed longer. Truly,  I learned more with him in three lectures than I have with CAPA for a whole month. Hearing a Rice professor lecture was a breath of fresh air and I appreciated it greatly.

Rice University Global Urban Lab students with Dr. Emerson

Internship Update
My internship is going great too! This week I did more work on projects for the Diversity Unit, regarding the Equality Act. I'm also in the process of listening to a 2hr debate between the parties that was held in the House of Commons a few weeks ago. I need to listen to it and summarize it for my site supervisor. I have found it really interesting so far!
I also got to go to a meeting for the entire headquarters. The chief of staff talked about the stances and priorities of the party, as well as some of the current challenges. He then asked every person individually what he or she thought his priority should be as new chief of staff. I was surprised that we wanted to hear everyone's opinion, and that he wrote everyone down. I was even more surprised when he asked for my opinion as well, even though I'm an intern and I haven't been there very long. Also, at the end of the meeting, he had all the new people introduce themselves, including myself. So I got up and told everyone my name, what office I was interning with, what I was working on, and where I was from. I appreciated the way everyone made me feel welcome and included. I certainly appreciated the chief of staff's way of talking to everyone, whether you had been there for years or for days.

Churchill War Rooms
On Friday I signed up with CAPA to go on an outing to the Churchill War Rooms, which are part of the Imperial War Museum. The are located just across the street from the Houses of Parliament, almost next to the Liberal Democrats office.
I really loved this museum! Mostly because I was a fan of Churchill before, but I honestly did not really know him well, apart from the fact that he was a great leader during World War II. I learned about his political style, the reasons behind it, his policies and ideas, his personality and the type of true leader that he was. He truly was insightful and wise. Being a leader is challenging, but the challenges he faced during war time were even greater. Yet he persevered using his wisdom and knowledge, and he became a true inspiration for the UK and the allies. I admire him even more now.
I also really enjoyed touring the war rooms. This was were Churchill and the War Cabinet met for weeks at a time to make important decisions about the war. It was essentially a bomb shelter in the basement of a building. Luckily, they never received a direct hit during the bleitz from the Germans.

At then end of the museum, I bought a small book about him titled All Will Be Well: Good Advice from Winston Churchill. It has some wonderful quotes and tidbits about him.

The War Rooms: how the looked during WWII (photo credit Angie Bautista Chavez)

Tracking the War (photo credit Angie Bautista-Chavez)

London Aquarium
On Saturday it was Angie's 21st birthday! Happy Birthday Angie!
To celebrate, we decided to go to the aquarium, which is located right next to the London Eye. We went because Angie loves sharks. She LOVES them. And the aquarium had just opened up a new exhibit featuring large sharks! So it was perfect.
I really love aquariums, so I had a very good time. I saw lots of beautiful creatures, including penguins, poison dart frogs, jellyfish, and sea horses. But more importantly, I learned how endangered some of these wonderful animals are and what one can do to help protect them. It is a shame that millions of sharks are killed to make shark fin soup in Asian countries, or that thousands of tiny sea horses are dried out in the sun to make souvenirs for tourists :(
I appreciated all of the conservation efforts that the museum is doing, plus the way it educates tourists about the dangers sea life faces.

Weekend Tidbits

What did I do last weekend? Here are some tidbits and thoughts on some things I have done.

The Iron Lady
-CAPA had a special outing to a movie theatre...to see the Iron Lady
-I of course signed up because the movie is advertised everywhere! (on every other double decker bus)
-While I enjoyed learning about Margaret Thatcher, I didn't think the movie was that great. It is basically a glimpse into the ex-prime minister's life, similar to a behind the scenes plot. However, this glimpse is through an elderly Margaret Thatcher's (played by Meryl Streep) eyes as she struggles with dymentia. She reminices about her youth but also hallucinates about her husband and has strange dreams.
-I wish the movie had concentrated more on her politics and her career, instead of her illness and current life. However, I hear many British people who lived during her time as prime minister enjoyed it because they got to see a slightly different view of the Iron Lady.

Out and About: Covent Garden
-Covent Garden is a district in the West End. What used to be a fruit and vegetable market is now a popular tourist attraction full of shops, restaurants and pubs.
-We walked around for a little while and visited different pubs.
-The area is also full of street entertainers so it was also fun to stop and see those.

Let it Snow!
-It snowed on Saturday afternoon!
-I have never seen so much snow
-I walked around in it for a while. My friends and I went down to a nearby park. While walking it so much snow was only fun for the first two minutes, I really enjoyed how beautiful everything looked. Everything looks amazing covered in powdery white snow.
-However, I still prefer Houston summers to London winters :) What can I say? I love sunshine.

The British Museum special exhibit: the Hajj, Journey to the Heart of Islam
-I really wanted to go to this museum because I felt it would go perfectly well with the class I am taking on Islam and Politics.
-My friend Angie and I went to the exhibit, and where delighted to find out that the price for students was 2 for 1! So we only paid 5 pounds each instead of 10.
-I loved the exhibit so much! I wish we had been allowed to take pictures.
-The exhibit was both beautiful and informative. I got to see real pieces of the kiswa that has covered the ka'ba. It is absolutely gorgeous, made with silver and gold thread. The kiswa was probably one of my favourite pieces.
-I also liked listening to a recorded "call to prayer" from a mosque.I'm sure I will hear more of these when I visit Istanbul for spring break.
-My favourite was an art piece that used magnets to describe the emotion of people surrounding the ka'ba. I thought this perfectly explained the heart of the journey to Mecca. In general, the exhibit was very successful in explaining the beliefs and reasons for wanting to go on the hajj. Islam really is a beautiful and loving religion, and I think it is a shame that most people in the US are ignorant of the real Islamic beliefs. Most people simply think "terrorism and jihad" without giving Islam a true glance.

99 Names for God

Research Blog

This past week I had to submit my first research blog for the Global Urban Lab class.
I was initially frustrated because we were given very little instruction on what was required. There were very little instructions on the length or format or what we needed to include. It just seemed general. But in the end I put something together.

Here is the link to my Research Blog: London Olympics 2012 and Policy

I had to put it on the Rice blogs website, otherwise I would have just included it here. Make sure to check it periodically for updates! It won't have as many....only 4 or 5 posts during the semester.

I also started my Research Lab Book. This is where I will keep detailed information about the progress of my project. It will have sources, hopefully transcribed interviews, and other information that I gather. I would put it up but I'm not quite sure how to do that because it is a word document.

Also....
I wanted to share my working paper for Dr. Emerson. This paper was optional but I had already started it. However, I haven't sat down to finish it. I will eventually. The assignment was to read all of the articles/chapters that Dr. Emerson sent us (more than 100pgs) and connect concepts of urban theory to London and/or the Olympics.

---------------------------------------------------WORKING PAPER----------------------------------------------------

In the late twentieth century, the transformation of the economy into a more globalized network renewed the importance of major cities as sites for markets, production, and innovation. One consequence of the rise of the global city has been urbanization, or the “development and extension [of the] complex traits which make up the characteristic mode of life in cities” (Wirth 1938:148). With urbanization, nations have also witnessed social and cultural changes that go beyond the cities’ administrative boundaries (Wirth 1938; Florida 2003). Today a global city like London is much more than just an international economic nucleus. London is also an intellectual and creative center, a “luxury resort” (Glaeser 2011), a multicultural city of immigrants, and the host of the 2012 Olympics. Particularly in light of the Olympics, London has captured the world’s attention. For London, however, the importance of hosting the Olympics will go beyond the sporting events into the transformation of a once overlooked area. As the East End witnesses a surge of growth and revitalization, it will be important to take notice of the legacy of the Olympics. The presence of the games and hence the extension of urbanism will be sure to bring lasting effects to the multiethnic community of the East End. It is yet to be determined, however, whether these effects will be overwhelmingly positive or negative for the surrounding neighborhoods and those who live there.

Place Matters: London

Though many predicted that cities would become obsolete due to the globalization of economic activity, it is still clear that place matters when it comes to international cities (Sassen 2006). Firms and markets still require central places and with them comes urbanization, unconventionality, and societal changes (Fischer 1975). London, for example, is both a leading center of global finance and a cosmopolitan capital. It is a playground for the rich (Glaeser 2011) and also home to large numbers of the “creative class” (Florida 2003). As in other global cities, the creative class has flocked to London to take advantage of the economic opportunities, the stimulating environment, and the varying amenities for different lifestyles (Florida 2003). London pulls people together, drawing from both the richest members of society and the poorest of the immigrants. This array of diversity has enriched the city and contributes to the magnification of humanity’s strengths (Glaeser 2011). Thus, globalization has created changes in society, culture, work, and immigrant economies of global cities (Sassen 2006). For this reason, understanding London as a city is important if one wants to understand urbanism and the cultural changes of our time.

Urbanization and Multiculturalism

Urbanism as a way of life has had varying social effects on cities and surrounding communities. Originally, urban sociologists saw the city as a study of human ecology, where critical masses of people resulted in the alienation and anomie of individuals (Wirth 1938).  Although people today may not see urban cities as places of anonymity, many studies still describe cities as places that break down social mores, where people can be free from social conventions (Fischer 1974; Glaeser 2011; Florida 2003). Fischer (1975) described this “unconventionality” as deviance and invention. Unlike Wirth (1938), Fischer (1975) believed that crowding does not derange people. Instead, it creates unconventionality that stems from the variety, strength, and diffusion of subcultures. As urbanism increases, subcultures within a city are strengthened. This subcultural intensity in turns encourages and tolerates unconventionality (Fischer 1975).

London is certainly an example of subcultural intensity and toleration of unconventionality. People from all over the world have settled in different London neighborhoods, ranging from ethnic enclaves like Brick Lane to multicultural boroughs like Newham. Over 300 languages are spoken in London, and the city has “at least 50 non-indigenous communities with populations of 10,000 or more” (Benedictus 2005). Furthermore, the 2001 census found that 30% of London residents were foreign born (Benedictus 2005). Such a numerous presence of immigrants and varying ethnicities have given rise over time to policies of multiculturalism. British multiculturalism is a philosophy that legitimizes diversity and attempting to foster both cultural differences and a sense of unity (Abbas 2005). The question of multiculturalism, however, has been at the forefront of politics since the attacks of September 11, 2001 and the London bombings of 2005. Political leaders have begun to question whether multiculturalism has caused fragmentation instead of integration into the mainstream British life (Abbas 2005). These issues of multiculturalism will continue to be important as London grows as a city and prepares to host the Olympics. This is so because the borough that will host the Olympics, Newham, is located in the East End and is one of the most multiethnic but poorest boroughs.

The London Borough of Newham is located about 5 miles east of central London. With a population over 270,000, it also has one of the highest ethnic minority concentrations of all boroughs (Greater London Authority 2007).

First Day Full of Cuppa's

Today was my first full day of work! Finally. So I haven't updated my blog about my internship because my start date has been delayed a few times. First, my site supervisor emailed me and told me not to go in (for a whole week) because she and the head of the department would be out all week. She said they were sick. Then, I got an email from the CAPA internship team telling me not to go to work because they needed to talk to me.
I went in to the office, not knowing what to expect. Did they not want me anymore?! I thought the interview went really well...
As it turns out, the office I'm interning with (the Candidate's Office) is under restructuring. My site supervisor and the department head were told that their work was redundant. Basically, there is a possibility that they will be fired and their duties be merged with a different department.   :0
However, they still wanted me to intern if I was okay with it. My work will be slightly different though. Instead of working for only the Candidate's Office, I will be working for the Diversity Unit and the Conference Forum. I thought this was a good improvement! Now my projects will be more varied and I will get a chance to meet more people and learn different things. But I still feel sad for my supervisor Maddy and the department head, Tamsin.

On Wednesday I went to the office for a little while, and Maddy explained the situation. She is very friendly and despite all the chaos, she's working hard to make sure I have a good internship experience. She showed me around the office and introduced me to a lot of people, including Roxanne and Vicky from the Diversity Unit. She also showed me where all the tea and coffee are in the kitchen :) After our short meeting, we concluded and agreed that I would show up the next day at 10am.

So I showed up on Thursday! Finally. I was a little bit nervous because I didn't know what to expect, but everyone I had met seemed very nice and very helpful. I arrived and was soon led to my computer. The way the office is set up....it is an open floor plan. So all of the "departments" are long tables set up next to each other. Diversity Unit shares an 8 person table with the Candidate's Office. Interesting. I then went through the logistics of getting an email, user name, password, desk supplies, cuppa tea, and my first assignment.

Vicky explained to me what the Diversity Unit does and what I would be doing that day. My first task was to: write a better version of a working draft regarding the newly passed Equality Act. The Diversity Unit wants to send mini pamphlets to local parties and local members to make them aware of the new requirements of this act that concern equality for disabled people. In other words, they want to tell members that they must be inclusive and outreaching to disabled people. They must print party information in braille or larger fonts (or audio recordings) to give to the blind. Among other things, they must also hold meetings, conferences, and voting polls in accessible buildings. The Diversity Unit is also working on a campaign to have more members and potential candidates who are disabled people. ("Disabled people" is the politically correct term).

So what I did....I took a long document that was in complicated legal jargon and re-wrote it into a 4 page draft. It had to be clear and easy to understand/read. I also made it more attention grabbing and looked up facts from the Office of National Statistics to add to it. I'm not quite done yet but I showed my supervisor what I had put together and she told me it was looking great!

Then in the afternoon the Conference Forum gave me a task. For the upcoming Conference in March (which I'm going to!) they have to register everyone and go through background and security checks. This is very important because security must be very tight. They don't want any incidents because so many high profile people will be at the Conference.
I was assigned to do some quick administrative things. I had a list of people who were already registered and accompanying pictures. Some of the pictures were badly taken so I had to edit and crop them so they could be printed as an ID.

And that was it for my first day! Not bad. My favorite part was the tea :) People take tea breaks almost every hour. And when they go get tea it is polite to ask everyone in the neighboring vicinity if they would like some too. "Anyone like a cuppa?" That's the polite thing to do, and that seems to be general office etiquette here in England. So needless to say...I had several cups of tea. It's quite delicious, especially with tea biscuits. However, I realize I need to learn how to make some good tea, because eventually it will be my turn to offer it to everyone else!

Field Trips

This week I had two different field trips for two different classes. First, I went to the Imperial War Museum with my European Politics class. Our professor wanted to take us here because last week, he lectured a little bit about the creation of different European nations. He said that many countries of Europe are in existence today (or their boundaries look the way they do) because of war. European wars have had great effects and consequences on the majority of European nations. Second, I had a field trip to Brick Lane with my Islam and Democracy class.

The Imperial War Museum
Monday, January 30th
We were supposed to meet our class and professor at 10:00am at the museum entrance. However, some of my friends and I underestimated the time it took to get there on the Tube, so we were about 15 minutes late.When we arrived we could not find our professor, but we did find one other person from our class. He told us that Dr. Lintner simply said to take a look around and visit different exhibits for a while. Hm. There were no other handouts, instructions, or even a meeting time to reconvene. It was a very unstructured field trip, and I felt that I could have visited any other day without the class.
But regardless, I ended up enjoying the visit very much. I initially thought the museum would be more like a testament to the glory of war (which I disagree with because I don't approve of any war). The first floor of the museum had some tanks, war planes, missiles, and army equipment.....and it made it look quite awesome. So in this respect, I felt that the museum was showcasing the wonder and magnificence of war, or of warfare technology at least. However, as I made my way through the exhibits, I realized they were also showcasing many of the horrors and negative consequences of war. For example, there was an interactive exhibit about war submarines. First you learned about the history of submarines and how they function. Cool! But they it showed how the soldiers lived in awful conditions, the hardships, the dangers, and the deaths related to submarines.
My favorite exhibit, though, was on the Holocaust. This exhibit was extremely well done. Of course it was not a very happy or at all pleasant exhibit. But it was very informative and had some great pieces of history. I listened to a recorded speech given by Hitler, I saw World War II artifacts, a model of a concentration camp, and read letters written by victims to their loved ones. It was horrible and awing at the same time.
In the end, I believe that was the message of the museum. War can be glorious and striking, but in the end it is always horrible and terrifying.

old submarine

Shell for the largest gun ever made

Airplanes!

Walking Tour of Brick Lane
Tuesday, January 31st
Brick Lane is a street in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets, in the East End. It is the heart of the city's Bangladeshi community (know by some as Banglatown) and is famous for its many curry houses. Our professor thought it was appropriate for us to take a walking tour of this part of London because it is also one of the largest Muslim communities in the city. 
He explained to us that the Brick Lane area is close to the docklands. Consequently, it has been the home of many transient immigrant groups. Originally it was inhabited by French Huguenot refugees. Then, the area became a Jewish neighborhood and remained that way for decades. But in the last thirty years, it has been the home of London's Bangladeshi community. This mixture of cultures throughout history has had a significant impact. For example, there are old Jewish synagogues that are now mosques. There are many bagel shops...but there are also colorful fabric stores and curry houses. The mixture is quite interesting. We also talked about how the area has been commercialized as a place for tourists. The government has updated the area in order for it to be more of a tourist attraction. There are plaques regarding the history of the area, street signs in Bengali, night clubs, and souvenir shops. 
At the end of our tour we had lunch at an all you can eat curry buffet. It was delicious! I also enjoyed the meal a lot because Angie and Chris and I sat at a table with our professor. We had a very good intellectual conversation about multiculturalism in Britain vs the US. 
I really enjoyed this field trip, despite the fact that it was freezing with snow flurries. I hope to go back again, at least for another good meal :)

Street signs in Bengali

Curry Houses!